UBC October 2024 - Alpine Descent

Welcome to Day 15 of October's UBC.

As promised, here's the backstory of alpine ascents and descents. Hint: it is not about skiing!

If Switzerland were to choose a national animal, the cow would be a top contender, with marmots, ibex, and the St. Bernard dog as close competitors.

With around 2 million dairy cows and cattle in the country and a human population of just 9 million, that's a lot of cows! However, increasing productivity has led to a significant drop in cow numbers, especially dairy cows. Since the 1970s, milk production per cow has doubled, but this efficiency comes at a cost. Bigger cows need more food and supplements, often leading to reduced health and vitality. Even the spring alpine ascent—a tradition where cows are taken to mountain pastures—can be a strenuous journey for them.

Speaking of the alpine ascent, it’s not just practical; it’s a festive spectacle. Farmers and their helpers dress in traditional costumes, strap huge bells onto the cows, and lead them up to their summer pastures. This colorful procession has become a tourist attraction, complete with food stands and performances featuring yodeling and alphorns.

During their 100 days in the Alps, cows graze on nutrient-rich grass, herbs, and flowers like gold clover and bellflowers. This diet boosts beta-carotene levels in their milk, producing cheese with a deeper yellow color and richer flavor. In winter, when their diet shifts to hay, the cheese becomes paler. Alpine cheese, made exclusively in summer, has a particularly aromatic and spicy flavor, thanks to these mountain plants.

Meanwhile, back in the villages, farmers prepare hay for the cows’ return, ensuring they have plenty to eat during winter. The cows’ homecoming in fall, known as the alpine descent, is another ceremonial event. Starting in mid-September, the cows, often wearing bells, are guided down the mountains by shepherds and the Gässbueb, or "goat boy," who helps keep the herd together.

I experienced the Urnäsch alpine descent in Appenzell Ausserrhoden, where old agricultural traditions are well-preserved. Even in the rain, the event attracted large crowds, including tourists from abroad. The village was bustling with anticipation, and despite the modernity of smartphones capturing every moment, I couldn’t help but feel that I was witnessing something timeless.

As charming as these traditions are, it’s worth noting that Appenzell Innerhoden, the neighboring canton, was the last to grant women the right to vote at the cantonal level—in 1990, following a Supreme Court ruling. Switzerland as a whole granted women the right to vote in 1971. It’s fascinating how such a forward-thinking country in some aspects, like agriculture and sustainability, was so delayed in others.

Back to the cows—most of them walked dutifully, while a few tried to sneak off for a snack, only to be gently nudged back by the shepherds. It was a beautiful, nostalgic scene, blending tradition with modern curiosity.

With traditions like the alpine ascent and descent, the humble Swiss cow stands as a symbol of heritage, agriculture, and resilience. Whether grazing in high meadows or parading through rain-soaked villages, these animals are woven into the very fabric of Swiss culture—perhaps more than we realize.

I do wonder though... The "no dairy" trend, driven by factors like health, environmental concerns, and animal welfare, is likely to have a significant impact on the milk industry, while also encouraging innovation and diversification into plant-based alternatives. 

Will we have future festivals and parades centered around oats, almonds and other dairy substitutes? Only half kidding...

Can you picture yourself witnessing this timeless tradition? What aspect of the alpine ascent or descent would you most like to experience?