UBC January 2025 - Colmar

 

On a Monday, I drove 135 km (85 miles) to Colmar in Alsace (France) with my mother. No tickets necessary, and thanks to it being Monday, it wasn't very crowded. No thanks to it being Monday, most restaurants were closed, though, so the joke was on us. 

We managed to find a Thai / Italian / Alsatian snack bar. The curry was delicious, but when we emerged, we were smeling like two giant French Fries! Is this what they mean by "when in France,...?"

Our clothes didn't even manage to air out after our stroll through the Christmas-decorated old town. It was a scenic stroll though!

Just like in English, the ending "s" indicates the plural of a noun, so "Marchés de Noël" are several Christmas Markets. Six of them, to be precise.

They are conveniently located within the historic town center, making it easy to explore them on foot. 

Place des Dominicains

Situated beside the 14th-century Dominican Church, this market features around 60 wooden chalets offering a variety of arts and crafts, making it a haven for those seeking unique decorations and gifts. 

Place de l’Ancienne Douane

Located in the heart of the old city, this market comprises about 50 chalets arranged around the Schwendi fountain. It extends to the Koïfhus, the old customs building, and offers a mix of contemporary creations and traditional Christmas items. 

Place Jeanne d’Arc

This market recreates the atmosphere of a traditional Alsatian village, focusing on local products such as foie gras, charcuterie, wines, and baked goods, providing a delightful culinary experience. 

Petite Venise – Place des Six Montagnes Noires

Located by the canal, it is known as the Children's Market, it features chalets offering toys and games, a nativity scene, and a merry-go-round, making it a family favorite. 

Koïfhus Indoor Craft Market

Housed in the medieval Koïfhus building, this indoor market showcases the work of about 20 local artisans, including potters, glassmakers, and woodcarvers, offering high-quality handcrafted items. 

Marché Gourmand – Rue de la Montagne Verte

A gourmet market featuring nine cabins where chefs prepare a variety of dishes, from starters to desserts, including regional specialties like oysters and Alsatian delicacies, catering to food enthusiasts.

We visited only two of them since we seemed to quickly run out of time. Mom had to be back home for an event she got hired last-minute to photograph, so we actually had to leave before it got dark and didn't get to experience the Christmas lights. 

We spent quite some time admiring the colorful houses, we thought they were so picturesque! Remember how we were talking about timbered houses yesterday? They are known as maisons à colombages in French, and these structures are not just decorative; they follow the traditional half-timbered construction method used historically in Germany and Switzerland as well.

The weather might not have been the nicest - and we got poured upon on our drive back - but we sure enjoyed the pretty decoration everywhere. So many details to discover!

Alsace has historically alternated between German and French control due to its strategic location along the Rhine. Initially part of the Holy Roman Empire, it was annexed by France in 1648 (Treaty of Westphalia), returned to Germany in 1871 (Franco-Prussian War), and then back to France after both World Wars (1918 and 1945). This shifting ownership has deeply influenced its culture, language, and architecture, blending French and German traditions.

This is also reflected in various foods the Alsace is renowned for, such as Choucroute Garnie, a hearty dish featuring sauerkraut (fermented cabbage) cooked with regional white wine and served with an assortment of meats such as sausages, pork, and bacon or Tarte Flambée, aka Flammkuchen, a thin, crispy flatbread topped with crème fraîche, onions, and lardons (small bacon pieces). Variations include toppings like cheese, mushrooms, or smoked salmon.

Also Kugelhopf, a yeasted cake baked in a distinctive bundt-shaped mold, often studded with raisins and almonds or as a savoury version with bacon pieces and walnuts, is a typical breakfast and dessert dish you'll get in this region. 

The shifting ownership of Alsace between Germany and France has resulted in a unique linguistic situation. Historically, the primary language spoken in Alsace was Alsatian, a Germanic dialect closely related to Alemannic and Swabian German. Under German rule, German was the official language, reinforcing Alsatian's use.

After returning to France, especially post-World War II, French was promoted as the official and educational language, leading to a massive decline in Alsatian's everyday use. If you're curious how it sounds, have a listen, there's English subtitles for your convenience:

For me it's super easy to understand him, as it's basically the Basel Swiss German dialect, sprinkled with a few French words.

Have you heard of the Alsace region? Would you try any of the dishes I mentioned?