Grossmünster: Every European City has one big Church





Itchy Feet map claims every European City has a "St. Tourist Trap's Cathedral".


Well, I'm happy to tell you Zurich does not have one of those, for the following reasons: 

Unlike London's St. Paul’s Cathedral, Notre-Dame de Paris, Sagrada Família (Barcelona) or St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City, Zurich's Grossmünster, a major Protestant church, originally built as a monastery in the 12th century, is not even a cathedral by definition. 

A cathedral is the principal church of a diocese and serves as the seat of a bishop. Since Zurich hasn’t had a bishop since the Reformation (explanation below), Grossmünster, even though it looks the part, doesn’t qualify as a cathedral in the strict ecclesiastical sense.

I have never heard of an international tourist who came to Zurich to see the Grossmünster! 

Compared to other countries, which have much more distinctive sights such as the Eiffel Tower, the Acropolis or the Collosseum, Switzerland does not attach much importance to showcasing itself with merchandise. Apart from the Matterhorn, which is overused whenever it comes to marketing Swissness, I think we tend to live understatement. 

So here it is, our not so famous Grossmünster:


Looks kinda small? That's because it's just the model of course. The original church's distinctive twin towers, which stand at 87 meters (285 feet) tall, are a defining feature of Zurich’s skyline.

The Karlsturm tower facing the Limmat is open to the public. A steep spiral staircase from the 12th century leads up 187 steps to the platform at a height of 50 meters. There, six panoramic windows offer views over the city, the lake and the Alps. The terraces are closed off for safety reasons.

Inside, the church is known for its simple yet elegant Romanesque architecture. Notable features include the stunning stained-glass windows, especially those designed by artist Augusto Giacometti in the 20th century.

Just like many buildings and streets, the Grossmünster is currently being renovated. I don't know what it is. Has Zurich applied to host the Olympic Games or something and needs to be in tip-top shape by this time next year?


Reformation, explained

Imagine you’re in a big classroom, and everyone has to follow the teacher’s rules. For a long time, people in Europe (including Switzerland) followed a teacher called the Catholic Church. The church told people how to pray, how to live, and what to believe. But some people started to feel that the teacher wasn't always doing the right thing.

Zwingli was like the student who raised his hand and said, "Hey, I think we should change some of the rules because they don’t seem fair or right!" He didn’t think it was okay for the church to be so rich or tell people to do things that didn’t make sense, like paying money to get into heaven.

So, the Reformation was like a big group of students saying, "We want to learn and practice things differently!" They wanted to read the Bible themselves, not just listen to what the teacher said. They also wanted to make sure that everyone could pray directly to God without needing someone to do it for them.

Zwingli was one of those students. He said, "We need to change the way we believe and worship!" He taught people that it was more important to believe in God from the heart than to follow all the rules that didn’t really matter. He also didn’t think certain church practices, like having a big fancy service with candles and statues, were necessary.

Because of Zwingli and others like him, many people in Switzerland (and other places) started following new ways of thinking and worshipping. This was the start of the Protestant Reformation, where people "protested" the old ways and tried to make things better, simpler, and more focused on what they believed was really important about faith.




Why does Grossmünster - in my eyes - still qualify to have some St. Tourist Trap's Cathedral vibes?

There's Teddy's Souvenir Shop, for once: It is the ultimate gift shop next door. From outside it looks like a small kiosk, but you can actually enter, and it's a full fledged store, stuffed with crap, made in China!




It's all there: Cuckoo clocks (which, btw is not originally a traditional Swiss product, but rather comes from the Black Forest in Germany), fridge magnets, shot glasses, miniature cowbells, snow globes, the works!




There's not just one semi-famous church.

Just across the Münsterbrücke you can see the Fraumünster Church in Zurich, founded in 853 by Emperor Louis the German for his daughter Hildegard, was originally a Benedictine convent. 


By the way, once a year, this picture, taken at the exact same spot, will look like this:



Over the centuries, it evolved into a significant religious and architectural landmark, known for its elegant Gothic nave and the striking stained-glass windows by Marc Chagall. 

It is - are you surprised - currently also being renovated, but visitors are still allowed in.


Installed in 1970, Chagall’s five windows depict biblical scenes in vibrant colors, a rare fusion of modern artistry with medieval heritage, making them a major attraction.



Compared to other famous European churches and cathedrals, the CHF 5 entrance fee for the Fraumünster is quite reasonable, especially considering the Chagall windows. It included an audio guide or a leaflet. 

Many iconic churches, such as St. Paul’s Cathedral in London (€23) or the Duomo in Florence (€15–€30, depending on access), charge significantly more. 

However, some world-renowned churches, like Notre-Dame in Paris and St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, still offer free general admission. 

All in all I'll say the St. Tourist Trap's factor in Zurich is limited. What do you think?


Comments

  1. Absolutely loved this post – a perfect mix of wit, insight, and local flavor! 🙌

    Your take on the "St. Tourist Trap's Cathedral" phenomenon is spot on. It’s refreshing to see Zurich's Grossmünster appreciated not just for its architecture but also for not being over-commercialized (okay, except for Teddy’s 😂).

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  2. I love old churches! I wish modern churches kept the beautiful architecture. Thanks for a fun post!

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  3. This was such a fun read—equal parts history lesson and travel journal! I love how you broke down the Reformation in such a clear, relatable way. And now I totally want to climb those 187 steps for that view over Zurich. Thanks for reminding us that not every “famous” church has to be a tourist trap!

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  4. We definitely fall for those tourist traps when we travel. In the Fall, while we were in Eastern Europe, we went into so many churches. Very cool to think this is where the reformation began.

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  5. You made religion sound fun!Loved the stained glass windows and your way of explaining what the Protestants are all about.

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  6. What a beautiful tour you gave "Tour Guide Tamara", I always love seeing the different older churches for their architectural beauty. When Rich and I would go riding, he would always stop when we passed a church so I could take pictures of the steeples.

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  7. Tamara, I love the Itchy Feet map and terminology more every day. I love the idea of St. Tourist Trap's Cathedral! This church is definitely low-key in magnetizing tourist bucks. My mother and I were in London long ago, and we just walked into Westminster Cathedral, through the main door, to have a look around. As we stood in awe, about halfway up the Sanctuary main aisle, a priest came bustling through the altar area, looking at papers as he went. He looked up, saw us (2 conservative ladies in topcoats), and asked if he could help. We said, we just came to look around. That dear man gave us a personal briefing of highlights of the Cathedral, and we were so grateful. No gate fee. And this remains one of the fondest memories of my life. Thanks for the erudite and witty tour of this zone. Are those roses in the fountain's pool?

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