Welcome back to another episode of A'lil Hoohaa's monthly photo blogging challenge.
This month’s theme is Self Care, and what better example than a trip my mom and I took in mid-July?
You know me, I keep seeing or reading about places and events I want to check out. This time, it was a traveling public art exhibition called HeartBeats, currently on display in Andermatt. The village is primarily known as a winter sports resort, but like many alpine towns, it works hard to attract visitors in the summer too. There’s a famous golf course (more about that in a moment), and the area is a haven for hikers, climbers, cyclists, and fans of old railways. Andermatt is a gateway to both the historic San Gottardo line and the nostalgic Furka Steam Railway. Families can enjoy the local water park or even go camel trekking.
Nature and Movement
Andermatt lies at almost 1,500 meters above sea level, or about 5,000 feet. As you’d expect at that altitude, the weather can be moody and change in an instant. Our weather app had forecasted 17°C (63°F) with sun and clouds, so we knew better than to show up in shorts and tank tops. Still, we weren’t prepared for thick fog and just 10°C (32°F) when we arrived. Our first stop before lunch was a sporting goods store where my mom bought a jacket. She claimed she had meant to get one anyway.
We had pizza (yes, indoors), and by the time we finished, the sky had cleared into a beautiful blue. The icy wind, however, stayed with us. We didn’t let that stop us and set off to explore the old village center, the kind of place that fits every postcard cliché of a Swiss mountain village: cobbled streets, wooden chalets, and bright geraniums in full bloom outside the windows. We kept our eyes open for the heart sculptures, which the exhibition promised in “dozens.” But we couldn’t find a single one. As it turned out, we were looking in the wrong part of town. There is also a new village, and that’s where the hearts are.
A Tale of Two Andermatts
Andermatt today is a village with two faces: the postcard-perfect old town, and the sleek new part with designer hotels and manicured plazas. What most people don’t know is that Andermatt was once at the heart of Switzerland’s national defense. The surrounding mountains were hollowed out into an extensive tunnel network: Command centers, emergency hospitals, bunkers for up to 30,000 soldiers. But with the end of the Cold War, the army left, and the local economy collapsed. That’s when Egyptian billionaire Samih Sawiris stepped in. About 15 years ago, he began transforming Andermatt into a world-class resort. The result feels like Switzerland’s answer to Whistler, BC: a purpose-built alpine village with uniform architecture and modern amenities. As a former Lego architect, I appreciate a well-built fantasy town, so I’m not going to be too critical about how man-made the new village square looks. The verdict is still out until I return in the run-up to Christmas. Then I’ll see if it’s got real soul beneath the surface polish.
Art and Inspiration
We decided to approach the heart trail from the far end, starting at the golf course. Until recently, it was run by one of our local sports heroes. Sure, we have Roger Federer, but Andermatt gave us Bernhard Russi, a 70s ski legend who even worked as a stuntman in the James Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service.
We spotted and photographed our first heart sculpture there, with golf carts in the background. From there, we followed the Reuss river through a nature reserve.
My mom noticed some laurel willows; trees you don’t see every day. The sculptures weren’t just decorative. They added small, thoughtful moments to the walk. Each one was designed by a different international artist and carried its own message. One of my favorites said “United we stand” on the front, and “Divided we fall” on the back.
Connection
Later, we stopped for caffeine at Jenny’s Mundart Café, which turned out to be a real gem. From the outside it looked unassuming, but once inside, we felt like we’d stepped into someone’s living room; sofas, vintage lamps, side tables. Everything mismatched, everything perfect. The owner told us she’d found it all second-hand.
We ordered espresso and chocolate cake. “You’re welcome to help yourself to water,” the friendly woman said. I blurted out, “How Swedish is that?” She smiled. “My mom is Swedish.” And just like that, we got talking about Stockholm, cultural quirks, my son taking Swedish at school, and how Sweden’s women’s team was facing England that night in the Euro quarterfinals. (Switzerland was hosting the tournament.) Somehow, it all connected.
Indulgence with Intention
As part of the July Ultimate Blogging Challenge, I wrote about our Stockholm trip and some cultural habits I noticed. One was fika, the Swedish ritual of pausing once or twice a day for coffee and cake. Another was lagom, meaning “just right.”
At Jenny’s, my mom and I shared a slice of kladdkaka, Sweden’s gooey, brownie-like chocolate cake, usually round and very rich. Two forks. Half the calories, full enjoyment. That’s fika. That’s lagom. That’s self-care.
Mommy and Me Time
I know how lucky I am to still have my mom, and to have her in good health and full of energy. Some of my friends have recently lost their mothers or had to move them into assisted living.
My mom is a tree lover, sometimes even a tree hugger, and a super networker. Around where we live, she knows everyone, and I mean everyone. As we drove home, she said, “I should have asked the café lady if I could take her picture.” I suggested she look her up. “How?” she asked, stunned. “The café probably has a website,” I said.
My mom is doing well with her smartphone and can email photos, but sometimes still asks her grandson (that’d be my son) for help with the Wi-Fi.
Back home, I googled the café myself and - surprise - I found out the woman we spoke to is Bernhard Russi’s daughter. So maybe that’s why her face looked oddly familiar after all.
I hope you enjoyed my five - did you count, there were six - and if you'd like to see more hearts check them out here.
As always, don’t forget to check out the posts from my fellow bloggers participating in this month’s challenge!
Tamara, it seems you and your Mom had a wonderful getaway in Andermatt. The heart sculptures outside like that remind me of Banff's "Art in Nature" trail, which is running for maybe the 4th or 5th year now. There's not necessarily a theme to the art, but it's all exhibited outside along a flat walking trail and stays up for a couple of months each year. You had me at brownie! I've been thinking about making a raspberry mousse on brownie base cake this coming weekend, and reading about your shared slice of kladdkaka made the decision for me!!
ReplyDeleteEvery time you post I marvel at the stunning beauty of your travels. Mommy and Me time is precious. Mine is 91 and headed for Assisted Living as soon as space opens at the place she wants to go. No travel anymore for her but she's still sharp as a tack!
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