No sooner had we left Carlisle (good riddance!) and crossed the border into Scotland than a surprise awaited us. Well, not exactly a surprise; we were following up on a tip from Janine, a former schoolmate of mine. She has an interesting background: born and raised in Switzerland, but her mother is Scottish.
As soon as Janine was 12, she eloped to Gretna Green to marry a Scotsman.
OK, I made that up. But she did marry a gentleman from Scotland and ended up moving there. Which brings us to Gretna Green. What’s the story behind it?
Gretna Green became famous back in 1753, when England passed a law saying couples under 21 needed their parents’ permission to marry. The law didn’t apply in Scotland, where boys could marry at 14 and girls at 12, no questions asked. So, young English couples in love, or simply in a hurry, fled north, and the first village they reached was often Gretna.
Scottish law also allowed “irregular marriages,” meaning anyone could marry a couple as long as two witnesses were present. Local blacksmiths stepped in to perform the ceremonies, earning the nickname “anvil priests.” The blacksmith’s anvil soon became the enduring symbol of Gretna Green weddings.
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| Photo by j.mt_photography on Pexels |
Today, couples still come here to tie the knot, and many venues, from old churches to purpose-built chapels, keep the tradition alive.
When I visited in 2025, I couldn’t help but wonder: why were those British teenagers so desperate to get married so young?
It turns out that in 18th- and early 19th-century England, family control was much stricter than today. Marriages were often arranged or required parental approval, and young lovers sometimes faced outright refusal. Gretna Green became their romantic loophole — a way to escape the rules, dodge the law, and marry freely in Scotland.
One can only imagine how they were received when they returned home. Penniless but married!
These days, Gretna is more of a tourist trap, a charming one, but still. The “Blacksmiths’ Shops” you see on signs aren’t bustling forges anymore. (Perhaps the museum shows more of that, shame on us for skipping it!) We got distracted by the shop shops, and fell headfirst into the world of tartans and clans.
Booklets explained the Scottish clans, from the familiar “Mac” names to others like Campbell, Fraser, and Shaw. And did you know there isn’t just one MacDonald clan? There’s MacDonald of Clanranald and MacDonald of Sleat, among others. (Sex and the City fans might also appreciate that “MacDougall” is a real Scottish clan name!)
Some famous people with Scottish clan heritage include:
Alexander Fleming, discoverer of penicillin
John Marshall, Chief Justice of the U.S. Supreme Court
John Wayne, actor
Johnny Cash, country music legend
Alexander Graham Bell, inventor of the telephone
Ewan McGregor, actor from Perth
Each clan has a Gaelic name, a crest, a motto (often something bold like “Victory or Death”), a badge, and, of course, its own tartan, the traditional woven pattern of colored stripes and lines.
If you picture a bagpipe player’s kilt as simply red or green, think again. Scots take their tartans seriously; over 7,000 unique designs are officially registered! Only a few hundred are actually woven and sold, but still… impressive.
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| Photo by James Frid on Pexels |
And yes, some of those can be found at the Gretna Green shops 😉 While they didn’t sell full kilts, there was an irresistible selection of ties, scarves, and cuddly bagpipe-playing teddy bears (and highland cows!). It took a lot of restraint not to buy one in every size.
In the end, Gretna Green may no longer be the place for runaway lovers, but it’s still a spot where romance, history, and a wee bit of tartan magic meet.
Would you ever consider getting married (or renewing your vows) at a place like Gretna Green, for the story, if not the anvil?
Such great Scottish history. As a Scotsman - I always appreciate hearing about my history. Although I didn't marry at 12, the strong, stubborn streak "I'll do it my way" carries true in this lineage. I did marry out of the clan... way out.
ReplyDeleteWhat a fun rabbit trail adventure!
ReplyDeleteLots of Scottish heritage here in my family and Oregon -
My friend Ellie Gunn (longtime Peace advocate - clan motto, 'Either Peace or War') first visited the Scottish Highlands in 2003. Her novel 'One Handful of Earth' tells of the Highland Clearances (1813), and each chapter begins with a clan motto.
The title comes from the English promise to grant land ownership to young men who fought for the queen (leaving their people and land ripe for the taking, and pasturing for the English Landlords' sheep)
She was invited to the 200th anniversary of the clearances, and her second novel, 'I promise to go Awandering' is set around the Festival.
One of my own aunts (Allen - a sept on clan Grant) married a McKay and my mother-in law was a McKey ('with strong hands' - clan MacKay) andour town hosts an annual Scottish Festival in the fall.
Thanks for taking me along to Gretna Green tour and what an interested history! I love the tartan plaid fabrics!
ReplyDeleteVery entertaining post, Tamara. I’m with a Scot. He is A McLaren. He sewed his own kilt and wears it on warm summer days once in awhile.
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