Leisure by the Limmat: A Tour of Zurich’s Riverside Charms

Welcome back to my Every European City series! Today, we’re testing Itchy Feet’s theory that every European city has a river with a one-syllable name. 

Let’s see if Zurich fits the bill:

Lim-mat… 

Nope! But just wait until we get to the letter S—luckily, Zurich also has the Sihl River. Ha!

Still, we can’t ignore the Limmat, so let’s dive in!

The Limmat: A River Shaped by History

The Limmat originates from Lake Zurich, having flowed from the Tödi massif as the Linth before passing through the Linth Canal. It continues through the Limmat Valley before merging with the Aare in what’s known as Switzerland’s moated castle.

Historically, the Limmat was essential to Zurich’s commerce and industry. Flat-bottomed Limmatboote carried textiles, grain, and other goods, while its waters powered mills and tanneries. The city's guild houses (Zunfthäuser), still standing along the riverbanks, once bustled with traders and craftsmen regulating commerce. The Schipfe district, one of Zurich’s oldest, was a hub for shipbuilding and trade.

Today, the Limmat is more about leisure than logistics. Instead of transport boats, you’ll find swimmers, paddleboarders, and scenic boat tours. Historic buildings that once housed powerful guilds now serve as elegant restaurants, boutique shops, and cultural landmarks.

A Tour Along the Limmat

We start at the Quaibrücke, where the Limmat flows out of Lake Zurich.

Bauschänzli: A Historic River Island

Immediately on your left, you will see Bauschänzli, a pentagonal ravelin. Originally part of the city’s 17th-century fortifications, this artificial river island is one of the last remnants of Zurich’s medieval defense system.

Owned by the city since 1841, the Bauschänzli has since served peaceful purposes. Today, it operates as a beer gardenwith seating for around 700 guests, making it one of Europe’s largest. Since 1995, the annual Zurich Oktoberfest has also been held here, a tradition started by the former tenant at the request of his Munich-born partner.

Zurich’s Bathing Culture

Zurich can look back on a rich tradition of bathing culture and still actively lives it today. In summer, visits to the Badi(public baths) are an integral part of everyday life.

While most are located on the shores of Lake Zurich, some are on the Limmat itself. For example, the Frauenbadi (women’s baths). To this day, the nostalgic Art Nouveau baths on Stadthausquai are reserved for women during the day. Here, you can swim with a unique view of the Grossmünster, the Wasserkirche, and the surrounding old town.

Historic Landmarks Along the Limmat

On the left side of the river, we pass the Fraumünster, and on the right, the Grossmünster, which we talked about a few days ago.

Worth mentioning, even if not directly on the Limmat but somewhat set back, is Café 1842. Since the year 1842, those with a sweet tooth can enjoy patisseries, cakes, a legendary hot drinking chocolate, and, of course, various coffee and tea specialties.

For lunch, Café & Conditorei 1842, aka Zurich’s oldest café, offers a small but fine selection of delicacies. 

With a unique view of the Limmat and the picturesque old town, the Hotel Storchen has been welcoming guests for more than 660 years.

The Lindenhof: A Historic Viewpoint

Passing the Rathausbrücke (remember the post about the lovely old bridge?), we now reach the Lindenhof.

The Lindenhof is the scene of numerous historical events. In the 4th century, a Roman fort stood here. Until early modern times, the square was a meeting place for the people of Zurich. In 1798, for example, the oath to the Swiss constitution was sworn on the Lindenhof.

Today, the Lindenhof is an oasis of peace and a meeting place for passionate chess players and Instagrammers ;-) 

Here you can enjoy a magnificent view of the Old Town with Grossmünster and the town hall, the River Limmat, the university, and the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology.

Zurich boasts a vibrant wine culture with numerous establishments dedicated to wine enthusiasts. Falstaff, a renowned wine and food publication, has curated a list of the top 30 wine bars in Zurich. However, when compared to other European cities, such as Paris or Madrid, Zurich does not have a particularly high volume of wine bars.

The Limmat’s Changing Landscape

After passing the Rudolf Brun Bridge, we come to the artistic entrance hall of a police station on the left bank of the Limmat, known as the Blüemlihalle, which was designed by Augusto Giacometti with wonderful frescoes.

A round trip on the Limmat boat takes you from the National Museum up the Limmat to Lake Zurich and back. Three new electric boats have been operating on this route since April 2023. 

The older models were diesel-poweredand had been in service for decades, gradually becoming outdated in terms of sustainability and efficiency. The transition to electric boats was part of Zurich’s broader efforts to promote eco-friendly transportation. Thanks to the glazed roof of the new boats, passengers can enjoy the view of the picturesque Old Town and Lake Zurich from all seats.

Schipfe: The Craftsmen’s Lane

The Schipfe is one of the oldest districts in Zurich, running below the Lindenhof. The name comes from the shipping industry and means "pushing the boats to the shore and back into the water."

In the Middle Ages, the Schipfe was a transshipment point for important goods. From the 16th century, it became the site of the silk industry, bathing establishments, and shipbuilding.

Today, the Schipfe remains a craftsmen’s lane. Experts take time to advise their customers, and quality products and custom-made items characterize the small, romantic stores and workshops. The Schipfe is an idyllic place to linger, shop, and eat.

The Love Bridge Returns

The Mühlesteg, known as Zurich’s "Love Bridge" due to its many love locks, was removed for renovations in August 2023 and has now been fully restored. Before its dismantling, couples had the chance to reclaim their love locks as the old railings were replaced. The bridge, featuring new stainless steel railings, improved lighting, and a fresh protective coating, has since reopened, once again welcoming new love locks.

Final Stops on our Limmat Tour

After the Platzspitz Park, we pass the Landesmuseum, Switzerland’s most important museum of cultural history, with its fairy-tale-like towers and rich exhibitions. 

Further along, on the left, the Löwenbräukunst area impresses with its mixture of old brewery and modern architecture, while on the right, we find the Letten riverside pool, a favorite summer hangout for locals.

Checking Off the Essentials

Throughout our journey, we didn’t just tick off Zurich’s key highlights, we also managed to confirm half of Itchy Feet’s map claims along the way!

✅ Food 

✅ Wine 

✅ Pricey Dining 

✅ Shops  

✅ Cafés 

✅ Hotels 

✅ Cobblestone Alley 

✅ Loveable Old Bridge 

✅ Postcard-Worthy Old Town 

✅ St. Tourist Trap’s Cathedral 

✅ Museums 

✅ Bars

I hope you enjoyed this tour! Do you have a favorite spot along the Limmat?